Best of Shanghai: Tianzifang

Tianzifang is a lilong which is to say, a traditional neighborhood block typical to Shanghai, a kind of hybrid between a hutong and the British row houses. Very dense, with 3-4 story row houses with narrow winding alleys, and small shops and restaurants ringing the exterior of the block facing the street. These were the kind of blocks which dominated Shanghai for most of the century, and which are currently being eliminated from the city to align with the central government's plan for Shanghai which is modern skyscrapers.

Tianzifang was slated for destruction and the residents resisted- they were bolstered by a massive influx of artists and artisans, who turned the lilong into a defacto artists district, and gained enough attention and tourism to dissuade the government from carrying out the demolition. Now, it is a major tourist attraction and while many of the ground floor shops are still artists galleries and shops, most of the lilong apart from the housing above, is taken over by more touristy stores, design boutiques, bars, cafes, and restaurants. It's still one of my favorite places in Shanghai, especially on a Saturday night.

The narrow alleys are full of internationals and Chinese, there's food from around the world available and you can dine either on the alley or sitting on the second floor open air terraces, and everywhere, there is the glitter of strung lights. It's a pleasure to lose oneself in the labyrinth of alleys and passages, similar to the passages of Paris. I liked it so much, I went back twice during my stay in Shanghai. Had vietnamese Pho one night, Japanese eel the other. Good place to shop and eat and drink.